Finally out of the country

Mark's Post

Sun coming up on Bahama Bank

We had been waiting for what seemed like weeks for the weather window that would allow us to sail to the Bahamas.  We had tried once before, ten days previous, but wind and distances were not conducive for a more pleasant, worry free passage. The winds were east south east which meant we would be close hauled or pointing as tight as possible into the wind and waves. Not our fastest or most comfortable angle of progress. Moreover, as we were leaving from Marathon we were one hundred and fifty miles from the Bahamas banks. Thus we diverted and headed northeast to No Name Harbor on Key Biscayne and waited for the opportunity to cross.

The issue with going from Florida to the Bahamas is the Gulf Stream. It flows from south to north at as much as three knots. When the wind blows from anywhere in the north the seas against the stream are steep and incredibly uncomfortable if not dangerous. North is the prevailing wind direction in the winter so we wait. Finally the forecast for February 4th was calling for southerly winds and we were ready to go.

Our intent was to cross over the fifty mile to the Great Bahamas Bank. We would then continue on to the Berry Islands, another eighty miles to the east, through the night, arriving by midday on the fifth. And this is exactly what we did.

Raising the anchor just after nine in the morning we headed out. The first part of the trip was what we had come to describe as “sporty”, fairly closed hauled, heeling at forty-five degrees and more, water routinely running down the lee cabin sides. Not the most peasant but we were making time, averaging well over six knots. When we hit the Gulf Stream our speed peaked over nine knots, the stream taking us north at three knots while we were trying to go east.

We came onto the banks just after sunset and were greeted by dolphins, flattening  seas and calming winds. Josie and Oaks took the first four hour watch and even motored for a couple of hours since things had settled so much. When Carol and I came on at 2230 hours (thats nautical talk for 10:30pm), the moon was rising as was the southerly breeze, perfect for re-setting the sails and shutting off the engine. It was a beautiful, relaxing four hour stint at the helm. When Josie and Oaks came back on at 2:30 the wind was steady and picking up a little. They hauled ass for the next four hours, averaging well over six knots. When Carol and I took over again at 6:30 the sun was rising, Josie saw the green flash and we were within twenty miles of our destination. 

Now, for the first time we could look over the side in daylight. The chart said twenty feet but our eyes said more like five. The Bahamian waters are so clear it is almost like sailing on glass. After a moment’s hesitation we sailed on, reaching Great Harbor Marina shortly before noon. Here we were met by the customs official, cleared into this, our first foreign port and headed for a lunch of fresh conch washed down with a Kalik brew.  No cheese burger in paradise for us. It was time to slow way down and go native.