Exumas
March 11, 2018
The sky is just clearing after a night of storms, squalls with high winds frequently changing direction and a strong current pulling and pushing us against our anchor.
We crossed the Exuma Sound yesterday with an anchorage in mind between Leaf and Allens Cay. We wanted to arrive by noon since the description above was in the forecast. We motored out of our anchorage near Cape Eleuthera and soon after Mark set the Genoa. We had a brisk east southeast wind pushing us from behind and we were moving! We’ve been getting the same weather fronts that have affected the Northeast which translates to strong wind, gusts, squalls and large swells.
The sail was beautiful, peaceful and exhilarating. The power the ocean holds is magnificent and to be able to experience it in this way is moving. We were sailing in depths of 4000 feet and I couldn’t help but feel humbled by the beauty and vastness of it all.
The wind and swells started increasing half way through our sail and to keep course, I felt like I was riding a wild animal who wanted to go one way while I another. With only the genoa up we were moving between 6 and 8 knots meaning we were making good time and would arrive in good early afternoon light which is very helpful for visual navigation in the Bahamas. In the right light, a sailor can actually see the contours of the ocean floor, the water is so clear, and thus avoid hitting bottom.
Once we set anchor the wind only seemed to increase but it didn’t stop those from pulling up in power boats and jet skis with hopes of getting a picture of the “giant” iguanas on Leaf Cay. Since we had just anchored in a relatively tight area, we wanted to make sure our anchor held before venturing off to do the same.
The wind picked up even more as the night wore on but we felt confident our anchor had a good hold. You still can’t help but sleep with one eye open. We took turns getting up throughout the night and at 0330 I saw my first glimpse of lightening. Over the course of the next several hours it went from a thunderstorm to a squall with gusts reaching 40 knot, howling and changing direction. At one point, we heard a horn. We looked out and it appeared the wind and current conspired to force two boats into one another. By mid morning, it all suddenly settled down.
We had heard on the VHF channel that a sailboat had dragged anchor and was up against the coral reef and later that day we found out it was our friend Charlie who we met in Key Biscayne. He’s a single handed sailor and fortunately well experienced so he was able to cut his anchor line and save himself and boat…whew!
We’re graced with a nude sailor in the boat just aft of us. He’s been to shore a few times in the buff and now he’s spending quite a bit of time bent over possibly making dinghy repairs or just flashing us. Its good to see that he’s protecting himself from the sun with a hat.
We initially arrived in Eleuthera while Josie and Oakley were still with us and since Oakley covered several of the highlights in the last blog post I’ll just mention a few things that struck me on this beautiful island. The Bahamians are genuinely kind and helpful. There’s a beautiful, gentle quality to the locals and therefore the island feels safe and welcoming. Along with the incredible beauty there’s something so fragrant in the air that I would periodically get a whiff of. It was so deliciously fragrant and reminiscent of something from my past…perhaps jasmine. I didn’t see anything in bloom that resembled it but it confirms my belief in the therapeutic value of aromatherapy.
The beauty with cruising is that you can spend time in places for much longer that you would otherwise have time to do. We’ve anchored off several different settlements and sometimes my first impression is that it appears there’s not much to a place but that’s always to the contrary. These places unfold with each new discovery.
We were told about a wonderful little place on the ocean side of Rock Sound called Nort Side Cafe. It’s this magical spot on the ocean with nothing else around. A woman named Rose runs the restaurant and a few cottages. She’s warm and welcoming and pulls out family photos and has a picture of herself with Nelson Mandala. She had one with the queen but that went missing at some point in time. You can come sit and take in the view even if you don’t order but if you want food you call ahead and she usually has a few tasty things made up. It was very relaxed and one of those places that would be easy to miss if you were just passing thorough.
Another treat was that we were able to visit The Island School and for those who don’t know, it’s a school that offers a semester long program for high school students with a curriculum based in environmental studies. It’s an impressive and inspiring place on many levels.
Just down the road is Deep Creek Middle School where Micha Conkling teaches. We were fortunate enough to attend final presentations where students spend a week in what’s called Learning Without Walls. They study Eco systems along with learning to swim and dive. They studied the parrotfish and it’s important function in the survival of coral reefs. Parrotfish feed on algae that grow on coral reefs that would otherwise smother and kill the reefs. Their slogan was “PASS ON PARROTFISH”. They wrote original lyrics, made an underwater music video, original sketches and thoughtful computer presentations. We thoroughly enjoyed their presentations and seeing Micha in a role that seemed so natural for him.
That same night we said our final good-byes (at least for this Tarwathie voyage) to our conscientious crew members Josie and Oakley. It was a memorable time.
A few days later Deep Creek Middle School had a presence in the junior Junkanoo Parade. Junkanoo is a cultural expression and the more popular belief is that it developed from the days of slavery. It takes months to prepare and lots of hard work but it showed. The costumes were elaborate and detailed. As the late afternoon wore on the crowd gathered and the celebration grew. Unfortunately we could not stay to the end. The wind was blowing the sun was setting and it was time to get back to Tarwathie.
March 11, 2018
 | |
| Between Allans Cay and Leaf Cay |
The sky is just clearing after a night of storms, squalls with high winds frequently changing direction and a strong current pulling and pushing us against our anchor.
We crossed the Exuma Sound yesterday with an anchorage in mind between Leaf and Allens Cay. We wanted to arrive by noon since the description above was in the forecast. We motored out of our anchorage near Cape Eleuthera and soon after Mark set the Genoa. We had a brisk east southeast wind pushing us from behind and we were moving! We’ve been getting the same weather fronts that have affected the Northeast which translates to strong wind, gusts, squalls and large swells.
The sail was beautiful, peaceful and exhilarating. The power the ocean holds is magnificent and to be able to experience it in this way is moving. We were sailing in depths of 4000 feet and I couldn’t help but feel humbled by the beauty and vastness of it all.
The wind and swells started increasing half way through our sail and to keep course, I felt like I was riding a wild animal who wanted to go one way while I another. With only the genoa up we were moving between 6 and 8 knots meaning we were making good time and would arrive in good early afternoon light which is very helpful for visual navigation in the Bahamas. In the right light, a sailor can actually see the contours of the ocean floor, the water is so clear, and thus avoid hitting bottom.
Once we set anchor the wind only seemed to increase but it didn’t stop those from pulling up in power boats and jet skis with hopes of getting a picture of the “giant” iguanas on Leaf Cay. Since we had just anchored in a relatively tight area, we wanted to make sure our anchor held before venturing off to do the same.
 |
| A mid storm coming together |
The wind picked up even more as the night wore on but we felt confident our anchor had a good hold. You still can’t help but sleep with one eye open. We took turns getting up throughout the night and at 0330 I saw my first glimpse of lightening. Over the course of the next several hours it went from a thunderstorm to a squall with gusts reaching 40 knot, howling and changing direction. At one point, we heard a horn. We looked out and it appeared the wind and current conspired to force two boats into one another. By mid morning, it all suddenly settled down.
We had heard on the VHF channel that a sailboat had dragged anchor and was up against the coral reef and later that day we found out it was our friend Charlie who we met in Key Biscayne. He’s a single handed sailor and fortunately well experienced so he was able to cut his anchor line and save himself and boat…whew!
We’re graced with a nude sailor in the boat just aft of us. He’s been to shore a few times in the buff and now he’s spending quite a bit of time bent over possibly making dinghy repairs or just flashing us. Its good to see that he’s protecting himself from the sun with a hat.
We initially arrived in Eleuthera while Josie and Oakley were still with us and since Oakley covered several of the highlights in the last blog post I’ll just mention a few things that struck me on this beautiful island. The Bahamians are genuinely kind and helpful. There’s a beautiful, gentle quality to the locals and therefore the island feels safe and welcoming. Along with the incredible beauty there’s something so fragrant in the air that I would periodically get a whiff of. It was so deliciously fragrant and reminiscent of something from my past…perhaps jasmine. I didn’t see anything in bloom that resembled it but it confirms my belief in the therapeutic value of aromatherapy.
The beauty with cruising is that you can spend time in places for much longer that you would otherwise have time to do. We’ve anchored off several different settlements and sometimes my first impression is that it appears there’s not much to a place but that’s always to the contrary. These places unfold with each new discovery.
 |
| Spider Cave, Rock Sound |
We were told about a wonderful little place on the ocean side of Rock Sound called Nort Side Cafe. It’s this magical spot on the ocean with nothing else around. A woman named Rose runs the restaurant and a few cottages. She’s warm and welcoming and pulls out family photos and has a picture of herself with Nelson Mandala. She had one with the queen but that went missing at some point in time. You can come sit and take in the view even if you don’t order but if you want food you call ahead and she usually has a few tasty things made up. It was very relaxed and one of those places that would be easy to miss if you were just passing thorough.
Another treat was that we were able to visit The Island School and for those who don’t know, it’s a school that offers a semester long program for high school students with a curriculum based in environmental studies. It’s an impressive and inspiring place on many levels.
 |
| Island School |
Just down the road is Deep Creek Middle School where Micha Conkling teaches. We were fortunate enough to attend final presentations where students spend a week in what’s called Learning Without Walls. They study Eco systems along with learning to swim and dive. They studied the parrotfish and it’s important function in the survival of coral reefs. Parrotfish feed on algae that grow on coral reefs that would otherwise smother and kill the reefs. Their slogan was “PASS ON PARROTFISH”. They wrote original lyrics, made an underwater music video, original sketches and thoughtful computer presentations. We thoroughly enjoyed their presentations and seeing Micha in a role that seemed so natural for him.
 |
| Mark and Micah |
That same night we said our final good-byes (at least for this Tarwathie voyage) to our conscientious crew members Josie and Oakley. It was a memorable time.
 |
| Junkanoo Parade |
A few days later Deep Creek Middle School had a presence in the junior Junkanoo Parade. Junkanoo is a cultural expression and the more popular belief is that it developed from the days of slavery. It takes months to prepare and lots of hard work but it showed. The costumes were elaborate and detailed. As the late afternoon wore on the crowd gathered and the celebration grew. Unfortunately we could not stay to the end. The wind was blowing the sun was setting and it was time to get back to Tarwathie.
Mark - You are missing a lot of great books and intellectual discussion at the Men's Book Club. How can you stand it?
ReplyDeleteI'm enjoying your trip vicariously; not without a bit of envy. Oh well, Maine is beautiful at this time of year and the sun is bad for my skin,etc.
Jackson G
Next year Mark's decided he'd rather stay home and not miss out of the Men's Book Club. :-)
DeleteMaine is beautiful year round and I love a good snow storm!