Heading home...

Hope Town, Abaco
Bahamas

April, 29, 2018

In less than a week I will be returning to the States while Mark prepares the boat for the journey back to Maine. His son Dylan and a friend will join him on that passage,

It wasn't long ago that Mark and I were driving our packed station wagon to Florida with anticipation of the adventure that lie ahead. We were about to have a really good look at a boat we had only laid eyes on for a few hours six months prior and wondered if it would still hold the same allure as the day we made the decision to call her our own. Leading up to our departure I was very excited about the prospect of this grand adventure but at the same time I had a few sleepless nights and moments of fear and anxiety.

What an incredible adventure it’s been from the get go. Even back to the days in the boat yard cleaning, fixing, scraping, and repairing, knowing we were one step closer to getting Tarwathie in the water. There were more things to resolve than we had expected and naively thought a few weeks was all it would take to get her up and running, but in the end, it was a total of five. Looking back, five weeks seems reasonable for a boat that had been out of the water 18 months.

Fast forward to the Bahamas.

There is so much about sailing I love. Just the idea that wind and a piece of sail cloth will move a 20,000 pound mass across oceans is impressive as all heck! No engine noise or diesel fumes, given enough wind, although an engine is a convenience and safety factor that when needed we’re glad to have. Also, to have the equivalent of your own little house on the water that can be pulled up to any number of beautiful places, with the help of a good anchor, is hard to beat! It is unlike staying at hotels where you are not only paying for a room but meals as well. We have not used refrigeration on this trip (energy sucker) but have managed to eat delicious, healthy meals for a fraction of the cost of eating out.

There’s a wide range of interesting people and stories out there  Sailing has its own sub-culture and an adventurous spirit is a quality that’s not lacking in the folks we’ve met. One of the difficult things for me is just as you’re getting to know someone either you or they are moving on. It can be lonely at times. There were moments when I’d yearn for a good laugh with an old friend. We’ve been more inclined to connect with people in smaller anchorages than the big sailing communities where there’s already networks in place. Those we have formed friendships with we’ve met in more isolated places and continue to run into along the way. Perhaps it’s that you’re all in the same boat and feel a need for connection. Fortunately, Mark and I do well in small spaces and togetherness but we’re social beings and sometimes need to expand outside of ourselves.

I have never considered myself a tropical island type. I spent years working flights to the Caribbean staying at beautiful resorts on the beach but this was different. There’s a quality in the Bahamas that’s gentle, peaceful, and safe, not to mention the friendly people, incredible beauty and clean, pristine waters. Each island has its own personality and charm. In some cases there’s dramatic differences between islands but generally there’s something in each with its own unique quality and common thread. I expected to see more large resorts along the shores but fortunately I have not. We have seen several examples of projects that have been stalled, but not before scarring up the land, only to be left for ruin. The Bahamas are sensitive to economic fluctuations in the United States.

I will be returning home with a heart full of memories that I hope will carry me through next winter as we figure out our future plans for Tarwathie. 

Some of the memories that stand out are the wonderful scents that filled the air. During hours of biking around Norman’s Cay the aroma of coffee wafted in the breeze. It was so enticing and a bit of a tease since we had not had a good cup of coffee in months! It was most likely a shrub we never identified. I mentioned in an earlier blog that Eleuthera also had a sweet fragrant scent in the air. Some of the most breath taking and unique beauty was in Norman’s Cay. The island is surrounded by beautiful warm aquamarine lagoons that were truly stunning. On my birthday as we sailed from Little San Salvador to Cape Eleuthera we had a tropic bird make five attempts to land on our mast and then out of nowhere came a beautiful young Italian woman on a jet ski!  Her large protective yacht loomed in the distance as she pulled alongside Tarwathie for a chat. Shortly after arriving in Little Farmer’s Cay we walked down the street and JR, the island ambassador approached us and wanted to show us his gardens. He gave us a wonderful permaculture tour of his property. He didn’t call it that but that’s what is was. He had a prolific food forest of fruit, nut trees and plants and knew the medicinal value of each. He also told us he’s been a wood carver 54 years and even though neither Mark nor myself are collectors of souvenirs, one of JR’s carvings was worth having. We bought a carved owl and will forever think of JR and his heartfelt laugh and joyful, warm spirit. That same night we shared one of our more remarkable meals in the Bahamas on this tiny island, population 55. The Lee property (one of Mark’s neighbors on Greens Island ) on Man-o-War Cay was especially magical. It captured my imagination. Jumping off our boat into the warm, buoyant water particularly when showers were few and far between was heavenly. The beautiful sea turtles popping up their curious heads, the light filled sky with nothing but stars makes even your biggest worries feel completely insignificant. The beautiful sharks, stingrays, birds, children, the lovely smiles and potcakes (wise old soul Bahamian dogs) are part of the fabric that helped me fall in love with the Bahamas. I am only scratching the surface as each day brought new and interesting experiences and encounters.

Have I become a better sailor? I sure hope so, since I was starting with less than basic skills. I’m aware the burden of responsibility fell primarily on Mark. There’s been a learning curve but I am much more comfortable than even a few months ago. I learned a lot watching Oakley and Josie prepare before and after a sail. I am usually at the helm while Mark raises and takes down sails and I appreciate the trust he puts in me to maneuver tight harbors and situations I’m not sure I can handle until I do. We’ve had some salty sails that either boosted my confidence or added to my fears. I wouldn’t change any of it. This trip has exceeded all expectations and I will forever look back on it with the fondest of memories.

I am sad to leave but it’s easy going home when the place you’re returning to is as equally beautiful as the place you’re leaving. I’m ready to get my hands in the garden, watch my chickens scratch the soil, get back to my studio for shiatsu and reconnect with my family and friends. It’s been quite a journey and I can’t think of a better person than Mark to have shared this magical adventure.